After being woken by the perpetual mooing of several nearby cows (cheers roadside roulette) we attempted to knock up some of Mother Betty’s Best Pancakes for breakfast. Entirely inedible, is how I would describe the results… so unappealing that even the cows rejected Mother Betty’s excuse-for-a-pancake when offered.
We moseyed into Bryce Canyon National Park, and whilst Winty attempted to deal with several intellectually challenged employees at Nikon/Sony (his camera was defunct) over their wifi “help” forum, myself and Adam wound our way through the park in a rapidly executed yet criminally short whistle-stop tour of the main pull-outs and vista points.
We took in Farview Point, Natural Bridge, and Agua Canyon, passing several mule deer en route, and photographs from all three were delightfully dramatic, with panoramic landscapes available, as well as fantastic views of arches and hoodoos (bizarre pin-like rock stacks that appear to rise out of the ground, but are actually a product of the erosion of all material around them).
On the way back we passed an area of burnt trees (one mile or so), which was caused by a “successfully managed” natural fire – from a lightning strike – that had spread across from the nearby Dixie National Forest and lasted for three weeks, subsequently allowing the regeneration of the soil and wildlife and so on. Although it gave the landscape an eery and somewhat post-apocalyptic vibe (à la Cormac McCarthy’s The Road), it revealed to us the intriguing cycle of natural destruction and consequent regrowth in National Parks which we do not often hear about. All rather interesting really.
After lunch we tackled a trail or two whilst making our way from Sunrise Point to Sunset Point. We did the Queen’s Garden Trail (there’s a rock formation that looks like Queen Victoria [see below]) and the Navajo Trail, both of which had enthralling views and take you in and amongst the hoodoos and crumbling rock walls before winding up into tight canyons to reveal yet more spectacular panoramic views of the Amphitheatre. We also saw Two Bridges – two small ‘bridges’ across a narrow canyon that remain solely as all other rock material around them has been eroded away.
Finally we tackled the Rim Trail, which encircled the Bryce Amphitheatre and gave fantastic views of one of the strangest landscapes we had ever seen; all these multi-coloured seemingly gravity- and erosion-defying columns of rock (hoodoos) stretching our in front of you, interspersed infrequently only by rare glimpses of the ground or trees and other plant life. We made our way up (emphasis on up) to the mesmerising Inspiration Point – a high vista that gave a grand view of the whole amphitheatre.
We took a bus back to the van, passing pronghorn deer and other wildlife en route, before driving to Bryce Point (the best views available in the park) for sunset and dinner cooking… a fine way to end the day.
The following morning we breakfasted in an authentic, privately-owned all-American diner, complete with proper locals, a toothless and somewhat ‘weathered’ waitress by the name of Betty, and a menu that featured a crazy, non-priced option by the name of the ‘Haymaker diet’ that contained half-a-dozen eggs, ham steak, fried potatoes and a toasted loaf (yes, loaf) of bread. Delightful. It was followed by an ultimatum: ‘Is there a Man in the House?’ There was also a sign by the kitchen serving hatch that stated: ‘Good food takes time… yours will be out shortly’. Equally delightful…
The drive to Capitol Reef National Park was made more eventful by the careless crossing of the road by several deer, changing rock types, and some mad views. Several cross-sections of rock could be seen in one cliff, which was as bizarre as it was enthralling. Approaching the small-yet-informative visitor centre (complete with the most ridiculously over-powered tap, see video below), we were faced with dramatic collapsing canyons on one side, and equally dramatic cliffs / canyon walls rising through several rock layers on the other.
With gathering clouds bubbling up and thereby increasing the danger of a much feared flash flood in of the narrow canyons, we opted for a brisk drive through to the view points and gully entrances, rather than risk venturing up the narrow canyons themselves. It was all good fun though; the rocks and canyons were as dramatic as they were daunting.
We treated ourselves to some amazing homemade mixed berry pie, homemade ice-cream and home-grown cherries at a delightfully rustic farmhouse (you know… horse in the yard, rusting machinery discarded and scattered about, flags blowing in the wind, creaky floorboards inside, etc). The pie was so good we bought another for post-dinner pudding. It would have been rude not to…
Subsequently, with the wind picking up a smidge and the clouds looming ominously above us, we opted to hit the road for our next destination (Canyonlands National Park) before it got dark. It was a rather sizeable drive, admittedly past some lovely scenery, and we arrived around sunset time at a campsite situated on the banks of the very swollen Colorado River, rather impressively cut between two hard-looking canyon rock walls.
As what seemed like a humungous storm brewed above us (wind gusts and resulting dust storms up the valley were almost unbearable), we somehow managed to cook up some mac’n’cheese (dubious quality) before entertaining and amusing ourselves (and the campsite too) with some outrageous guitar playing antics. Sing. Sing. Sing. A fine way to end the day…
Sing, Sing sing indeed! it got that dark somebody had to shine a torch on the guitar…..
Please, can you PM me and tell me few more thinks about this, I am really fan of your blog… 34